HOME SELLERS- Do Your Own Home Inspection before the Buyers Come Looking

Statistics will show a house with a pre-listing inspection sell faster. And homes with pre-listed home inspection are less likely to have another home inspection by the buyer. The BAIR (Building Analysis Inspection Report) System is a DIY Home Inspection. It is fast, not as expensive as a hired inspection. The BAIR System is thorough and complete. And yet it is easy to follow. 

 

Many Realtors today are recommending to their home SELLERS, to have a home inspection, before the BUYER comes into the picture. And for good reason, statistics will show homes that have had a pre-inspection before the listing, have sold faster, because they are “cleaner”. The buyer’s thought is: “If the seller is willing to have their own home inspected, the seller is being up front about the home”. The buyer will have more confidence in the home. It shows the seller has nothing to hide.

 

A seller that does his own home inspection will learn of any hidden defects that may exist, and has the opportunity to do any repairs that may turn up, if the buyer request a hired home inspection.

 

Being I was in the home inspection business for twenty years and the author of the BAIR (Building Analysis Inspection Report) System, (a thorough do it yourself handbook guide and report), I know a person does not have to be an expert to diagnose most problems found during a  home inspection. And most repairs have “Do It Yourself” remedies. The BAIR System handbook sections, explains how to inspect ANY component found in a home and the significance of a defect. 

 

A good selling point for sellers is to have your completed BAIR inspection report available for buyers when they walk through. If there is a Realtor representing the buyer, let the Realtor know about your report and where it will be in your home. Reading this report is valuable to the potential buyer and shows you are up front with the home and its condition. The completed report will show defects, to the buyer. If the defects have been repaired, it is suggested to give them the update as well. The house will show so much better.

 

There are many “do-it-yourself” inspection checklists available. Most of these reports will only give you a checklist to fill out without how to instruction. It is strongly recommended to purchase the BAIR System it gives you instruction on how to perform an inspection on the many components found in the home. The BAIR System has a check list after each section and a summary page at the back of the report for your full evaluation.

 

The BAIR System is easy to follow, while performing your own DIY home inspection.

 

Download at: http://www.bairsystem.com

Building Analysis Inspection Report-The Bair System

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REALTORS- Would you consider a DIY Home Inspection for your clients? Why You Should Consider.

One of the most dreaded parts of a real estate transaction is the home inspection,

because home inspections can “kill deals”.  A DIY, (Do It Yourself), Home Inspection will kill fewer deals than a hired home inspection. And here is why.

 

When your clients find their home and while going over the earnest money agreement, they decide on a home inspection. That evening they are discussing their new home. The conversation may go something like this: “I love the house, but I think we should update the hall bath. One says, I am not crazy about the color of the house, but since the house will need to be re-painted soon it will be a good time to change colors”. The other agrees. And so goes the conversation, (A typical conversation).

 

Most clients get very excited about their new house and dream about what improvements they can make, where their furniture will go, etc. If you have ever bought a home, you know the feeling.

 

Now comes the hired home inspection. A hired inspector will list every defect and concern he finds. He gives the inspection report to your client. Assuming he is an experienced inspector with good communication skills and writing skills, the report will be all you will need to negotiate. If not, you will need to question the inspector and his statements and report.

 

The client is a bit overwhelmed by the negative report and their dreams have been dampened. It is now your turn to explain, “This inspection report is typical and we can try to work through these issues with the seller, be patient, andlet’s see what happens”.

 

The other option would be a “DIY Home Inspection, such as the BAIR System, (Building Analysis Inspection Report). There are many choices of DIY home inspections, however most are no more than a checklist for the user to fill out, without any “how to” instruction.

 

The downloaded BAIR System package includes a “Pre-Inspection Agreement” for your client to read and sign (for your records). The Pre Inspection agreement is a binding legal contract eliminating any liability between you, (the Realtor), and your client (buyer or seller), for using the BAIR System. Your client would simply read and sign the agreement and give you a copy for your records. It is similar to what the inspector has the client read and sign prior to an inspection.

 

The BAIR System has comprehensive instructions that the average person can follow to guide one through their inspection. It explains how to inspect ANY component found in a home. Most DIY Home Inspection Reports on the market do not have this instruction guide. Without how to instruction these inspection reports are useless unless the user has a good back ground in construction and the knowledge of the working mechanics of a home.

 

Now, if your client was to perform their own inspection, many of these issues brought up by the hired inspector would not be in their report. Because they know what they are capable of handling and what their future plans are with there new home. This automatically eliminates the negativity. They would not list anything they are capable of repairing themselves, or what a friend or relative would be able to do for them.

 

The DIY home inspection gives them more time in their new home to further plan and learn the home.

 

A draw back to the Realtor is they may need to stay for the inspection if the home is occupied, unless the seller will be present. On the other hand, just being there with your clients may be a big plus for you.

 

Home sellers who have used the BAIR System as a Pre-Listing tool have learned the majority of defects found have do it yourself remedies.

 

The BAIR (Building Analysis Inspection Report) System has been designed by a home inspector who has completed 7000 home inspections. It is designed to be thorough yet an easy to follow. It is broken down into sections with a checklist for each section as well as a summary page for evaluation at the back of the report.

 

Review the Report and Download at: http://www.bairsystem.com

How to Recognize and Inspect Foundation Cracks, What Do They Mean?

The foundation walls are connected to the top of the footings. The purpose of a foundation is to carry the weight of the house structure down through the foundation to the footings.

 

Cracking foundations and what they mean is one of the less understood parts of a home inspection by home inspectors. Foundation cracks can indicate many different possibilities of cause and effect. This article is written to cover cracks in general and given the main causes of cracks. By better understanding cracks (there cause and effect) may lead to some answers without the help of an engineer.

 

Whatever their construction, (concrete, brick, concrete blocks, stone, etc.), foundation walls crack because of lateral force, settling, heaving or uneven loads (more weight than designed on a specific section), of the foundation walls. Natural forces such as earth quakes can also be a contributor in earthquake regions.

 

To begin your inspection, use a pad and pencil while observing the exterior foundation. Make notes of cracks and their locations. When inside the lower level, you will want to try to locate them on the inside. If the crack goes entirely through the foundation it may be a red flag. Small hair-line cracks that do not go through the foundation wall are common and nothing to worry about; they may have been caused by shrinkage of the concrete or mortar joints.

 

A found crack sometimes has a similar type crack on an opposite wall of the foundation. Similar cracks on opposite walls may have the same cause, with the exception of horizontal cracking caused by a lateral force.

 

Types of Cracking

Vertical and 45 degree cracking is usually caused by settlement and heaving. Horizontal cracking is commonly caused by side pressure on the foundation, such as hydrostatic pressure (a lateral force). Surface cracks that do not go entirely through the wall and with no signs of displacement are not normally a structural defect. Isolated vertical cracks that do not extend to the lower edge of the foundation wall are usually shrinkage cracks(caused by the concrete shrinking during curing, or minor settling.

 

Causes of Horizontal Cracking

The foundation should act as a retaining wall, resisting lateral pressure of the soil on the outside of the basement or crawl space. If the foundation does not provide enough lateral support, the walls will deflect inward and create horizontal cracking. Some of the causes are foundation walls that are too thin or do not have, (or not enough), reinforcement, such as rebar in the concrete foundation. Backfilling the foundation too soon before the foundation has a chance to fully cure. Or during back filling if big stones or hard frozen chunks of ground were dumped against the foundation can cause horizontal cracking.

 

Causes of Heaving Foundations

Heaving cracks in foundations made out of brick, blocks, or stones, will generally have cracking in the form of a step, called “step cracking”. Step cracking usually follows the mortar joints in these materials.

 

In concrete foundations, cracks from heaving are usually vertical and are wider at the top of the crack than at the base.

 

Some areas of the country have expansive soils, which increase in size when they absorb water, causing heaving cracks. Moisture added to dry expansive soils, say from a sudden down pour, will drastically change the volume of the soil and cause serious heaving problems as well as structural damage in some cases. When the expansive soil dries, the shrinkage can also cause a pulling effect on the foundation. The method of prevention is to maintain the soil moisture content, by keeping the soil as dry as possible along the foundation. This can be achieved by proper grading around the perimeter.

 

Causes of Foundation Settlement

Settling of the soil under the foundation is usually the cause of settlement cracks in the foundation walls. Cracks caused by settling resemble cracks caused by heaving, except the crack is wider at the lower end of the crack.

 

If a crack is new or active the crack may still be moving. To identify a new or active crack, look for sharp edges, clean inside of the crack and sometimes with bits of concrete still in the crack. Old cracks will have dust, dirt, paint and/or insect parts in the crack.

 

To determine the severity of a crack or its cause, it may need to be evaluated by a geotechnical engineer. Large cracks 3/8” wide should be carefully examined. Cracks can be measured by the engineer, to determine if it is moving or if it is stabile. Many times Home Inspectors call on the services of an engineer, to be sure the foundation is sound.

 

What to look for inside the house structure:

 

Doors and windows that are stuck and misalignment (gaps)

Foundation settlement can cause doors and windows to be come misaligned. This can be seen when observing the edges around the windows or doors, where they close. Look for gaps larger on one side than the other. This can help determine where the settling is occurring.

 

Cracks in the walls

Foundation settlement can cause wall cracking. Settlement cracks are wider on one end than the other. Let it be known wall cracking can also be caused by the house expanding and contracting through its seasons. If there is no evidence of foundation defects and there is wall cracking, it, more than likely, is caused by the latter. 

 

Sloping or tilting floors.

I have learned during my home inspection career that most people will not notice sloping less than 1/8” slope per foot. 3/16”slope per foot is noticeable to most people.  A family living in an older home for a long time might not notice sloping even if severe. We tend to adjust to gradual sloping over time.

 

If there is doubt, use a level to determine if the floor is level. Floor elevations should be recorded for future reference in the inspection.

 

Unless the sloping is substantial or extensive remodeling is planned, the best repair would be to stabilize the foundation. Extensive re-leveling in an older home may cause more than expected damage to the interior walls, ceilings, doors, windows and cabinetry. Re-leveling should be left to a professional contractor.

 

If the home has been stabilized and future movement is unlikely, buyers will often accept the uneven floors.

 

This article was written to act as tool to guide and assist a DIY Inspection on foundations. Gary wrote the BAIR (Building Analysis Inspection Report) System, which is a DIY Inspection that consists of a lot of instructional detail (a guide or handbook) written about any of the many components that can be found in the home.

 

Review and download at:

 

http://www.bairsystem.com